How Do You Remove A Bike Pedal

Removing your bike pedals is a fundamental maintenance task every cyclist should know. Whether you're upgrading to a new set, packing your bike for a trip, or giving your crankset a deep clean, this guide will walk you through the process step by step. The key trick is knowing that your two pedals loosen in opposite directions. We'll show you exactly how to apply force correctly, what tools you need, and how to deal with stubborn pedals that don't want to budge, all while keeping your knuckles safe.

Fast Answer

Right Pedal (Driveside): Turns anti-clockwise (left) to loosen.
Left Pedal (Non-Driveside): Turns clockwise (right) to loosen.
Tool Needed: Usually a 15mm pedal spanner or a 6mm/8mm Allen key.
Top Tip: Push the spanner down towards the back of the bike for maximum leverage.

5-15 Minutes Time needed

Beginner Difficulty

Left pedal is reverse-threaded Watch out for

Before You Start

Gathering the right tools and understanding the task ahead will make the job much smoother. A little preparation now prevents a lot of frustration later, especially if your pedals have been on the bike for a long time.

What You Need

The Right Tool: Most pedals require either a 15mm pedal spanner, which is thin enough to fit on the narrow flats of the pedal axle, or a 6mm or 8mm Allen key, which fits into a socket on the end of the axle. Check your specific pedals to see which you need. A standard 15mm spanner might be too thick, so a dedicated pedal spanner is often best.
Penetrating Oil: If your pedals are stuck fast from rust or being overtightened, a spray like WD-40 or a dedicated penetrating fluid will be your best friend.
Bike Grease: You won't need this for removal, but it's essential for installing the new pedals. Using a good quality anti-seize or waterproof grease prevents them from seizing up in the future.
Rags or Paper Towels: For cleaning old gunk off the crank arm threads and wiping up any excess oil or grease.
Gloves (Recommended): A pair of mechanic's gloves will save your knuckles from getting scraped on the chainrings if the pedal suddenly breaks free.

Safety and Context Checks

The single most important thing to remember is the threading. Get this wrong, and you risk permanently damaging your bike's crank arms, which can be an expensive mistake. Take a moment to fix this in your mind before you pick up a tool.

Check first: The left pedal (the non-driveside, without the chain) is reverse-threaded. This means you must turn it clockwise to loosen it. Forcing it the wrong way will strip the threads. The right pedal has a normal thread.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully for a smooth and safe pedal removal. We'll start with the driveside (right pedal), as its standard threading is more familiar.

Position Your Bike and Cranks

First, set your bike up for success. While a bike stand is useful for many jobs, for removing tight pedals, it's often better to have the bike on the ground so you can use your body weight. Stand on the opposite side of the pedal you are working on.

For hand safety, shift your chain onto the largest chainring at the front. The teeth on the chain itself are much less sharp than the bare teeth of the chainring, creating a protective barrier for your knuckles.

Rotate the crank arm on the side you are working on so it points forward, parallel to the ground (the '3 o'clock' position). This gives you the best angle to push down and use gravity to your advantage.

Start with the Right Pedal (Driveside)

The right pedal is on the same side as your chain and gears. This pedal has a standard thread, so the classic saying "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" applies. To loosen it, you will turn the spanner or Allen key to the left (anti-clockwise).

With the right crank arm pointing forward, fit your tool onto the pedal axle. Whether you're using a spanner or an Allen key, ensure it's fully and securely seated to avoid rounding off the bolt or slipping.

Apply Force to Loosen the Right Pedal

Position your spanner so that it points towards the back of the bike, roughly parallel to the ground. This setup allows you to push straight down towards the floor. Applying force this way is safer and more effective, as it drives the crank into a static position against the chain rather than just spinning it uselessly.

Apply firm, steady downward pressure with the heel of your hand. Pedals can be extremely tight, so you might need to give it a sharp, controlled jolt of force to break the initial seal. Be prepared for it to release suddenly.

Tip: Think of the direction the wheel spins when you pedal forward. To loosen either pedal, you effectively want to turn the spanner towards the rear of the bike.

Unscrew and Remove the Pedal

Once you've broken the initial tension, the pedal should unscrew relatively easily. You can often spin it the rest of the way out by hand. As you remove it, look for a small, thin washer between the pedal and the crank arm. Not all pedals have them, but if yours does, make sure you don't lose it.

Congratulations, the first pedal is off. Now for the tricky one.

Move to the Left Pedal (Non-Driveside)

Walk around to the other side of your bike. This is the non-driveside, and this pedal has the reverse thread. Remember, this means you need to turn it clockwise (to the right) to loosen it.

Just as before, position the left crank arm so it points forward, parallel to the ground.

Loosen the Reverse-Threaded Left Pedal

Fit your tool securely onto the pedal axle. Again, position the handle so you can push straight down towards the rear wheel. Even though you are turning the tool clockwise relative to the thread, the physical motion of pushing down is exactly the same as on the right side. This consistency makes the job easier.

Apply steady downward force. Because this pedal tightens in the direction of pedalling, it can sometimes be even tighter than the right one. A sharp jolt of force may be necessary here too.

Unscrew, Remove, and Clean

Once the left pedal breaks free, spin it clockwise until it comes out of the crank arm. Check for a washer here as well. With both pedals removed, take a rag and wipe down the exterior of the crank arms.

Most importantly, use the corner of the rag or a small brush to thoroughly clean the threads inside each crank arm. Removing old grease, dirt, and metal filings is crucial for ensuring your new pedals thread in smoothly and don't get damaged.

Quick Reference

Situation	Use This	Why
Right Pedal (Driveside)	Turn Anti-Clockwise	It's a standard thread ("Lefty loosey").
Left Pedal (Non-Driveside)	Turn Clockwise	It's a reverse thread to prevent it unscrewing as you pedal.
Pedal is completely stuck	Apply penetrating oil	It creeps into the threads to break down corrosion and rust.
Protecting your hands	Shift chain to big ring	The chain covers the sharp chainring teeth.

Common Problems When You Remove A Bike Pedal

Sometimes, things don't go as planned. Here are the most common issues you might face and how to solve them without reaching for a sledgehammer.

The Pedal is Completely Seized

This is the number one problem, usually caused by corrosion from water and dirt, or if the pedals were installed without grease. Don't panic; you have a few options.

Penetrating Oil: Liberally spray a penetrating fluid like WD-40 Specialist Penetrant (or similar) into the join between the pedal axle and the crank arm. Let it sit for at least 15-30 minutes to work its way into the threads. For truly stubborn cases, you may need to leave it overnight.
More Leverage: A longer spanner provides more torque. If you're using a standard Allen key, you can slide a length of pipe over the end to create a 'cheater bar' for extra leverage. Apply force smoothly and carefully, as too much force can snap the tool or damage the bike.
Use Gentle Heat: Metal expands when heated. Use a hairdryer or a heat gun on a low setting to carefully warm up the crank arm around the pedal thread. The goal is to make the aluminium crank expand slightly more than the steel pedal axle, helping to break the bond. Avoid excessive heat, especially with carbon fibre cranks.

The Tool Slips Off

If your spanner or Allen key keeps slipping, stop immediately. Continuing will likely round off the flats on the pedal axle or the inside of the Allen socket, making removal nearly impossible. This usually happens for two reasons: the tool is low quality or worn, or it isn't seated correctly.

First, make sure the Allen socket or spanner flats are completely clean and free of dirt. Then, ensure the tool is pushed in as far as it will go. Apply inward pressure on the head of the tool as you turn the handle to keep it firmly in place.

Scraping Your Knuckles

It’s a painful rite of passage for many home mechanics. When a stuck pedal finally breaks free, your hand flies forward and smashes into the sharp teeth of the chainring. As mentioned in the steps, the best prevention is to wear gloves and to shift the chain onto the big ring before you start. This simple step provides a crucial buffer.

Advanced Tips for Removing Bike Pedals

Once you've mastered the basics, these tips will help you work more efficiently and protect your equipment in the long run.

Understand Precession: Ever wondered why the left pedal is reverse-threaded? It's because of a mechanical force called precession. As you pedal, the pressure causes the pedal axle to try and 'roll' inside the threads. On the left side, this force would cause a normal pedal to slowly unscrew itself. A reverse thread makes the same force tighten the pedal, keeping it secure.
Prepare for Installation: The best time to make the *next* pedal removal easy is now. Before you install new pedals, clean the crank threads meticulously with a degreaser and a small brush. Once clean and dry, apply a thin, even layer of anti-seize compound or waterproof grease to the pedal threads. This creates a barrier against corrosion and ensures you can remove them easily next time.
Mark Your Pedals: When you take pedals off, they look identical except for a tiny 'L' and 'R' stamped on them. If you plan to reinstall them later, use a marker or a piece of tape to clearly label which is which to avoid confusion.

How Do You Remove A Bike Pedal FAQ

Do all bike pedals unscrew the same way?

No, and this is the most critical point. The right-side (driveside) pedal loosens anti-clockwise (a normal thread). The left-side (non-driveside) pedal loosens clockwise (a reverse thread).

What tools do I need to remove bike pedals?

The vast majority of pedals can be removed with either a 15mm pedal spanner or a 6mm or 8mm Allen key. You must check your pedals to see which tool they require.

My pedals don't have flats for a spanner. How do I get them off?

If there are no wrench flats on the axle near the crank, look at the very end of the axle. You will almost certainly find a hexagonal socket for an Allen key there.

Why is the left bike pedal reverse-threaded?

It's a clever piece of engineering to counteract a force called precession, which would otherwise cause the pedal to gradually loosen and fall off as you ride.

What if my pedal is absolutely, completely stuck?

After trying penetrating oil, leverage, and gentle heat, there comes a point where it's wise to stop. Applying extreme force can break the pedal axle or, worse, destroy the crank arm. If it's truly seized, your local bike shop has heavy-duty tools and experience to remove it safely.

Final Checklist for Removing A Bike Pedal

Before you pack up your tools, run through this quick final check to ensure you've done the job right and are ready for the next step.

Identified the correct tool for your specific pedals (15mm spanner or 6/8mm Allen key).
Remembered the golden rule: Right pedal turns left to loosen; left pedal turns right to loosen.
Positioned the bike safely on the ground with the chain on the big ring.
Used body weight effectively by pushing down on the tool towards the rear of the bike.
Kept track of any pedal washers that came off with the pedals.
Thoroughly cleaned the threads inside the crank arms, ready for new pedals.
Have grease or anti-seize compound ready for the installation process to prevent future problems.