How Do You Take Off A Bike Pedal

Removing bike pedals seems simple, but it’s a task where a small bit of knowledge can save you from a lot of frustration and potential damage to your bike. The key is understanding that the left pedal is reverse-threaded to prevent it from unscrewing while you ride. This guide provides clear, step-by-step instructions to safely remove both pedals, whether you're upgrading, cleaning, or packing your bike for travel. We’ll cover the tools you need, the correct turning direction for each side, and how to handle stubborn, stuck pedals without damaging your crank arms.

Fast Answer

Right Pedal: Turns anti-clockwise (left) to loosen.
Left Pedal: Turns clockwise (right) to loosen.
Easy Method: Always turn the wrench towards the rear of the bike.

5-10 Minutes Time needed

Easy Difficulty

Knuckle Scrapes Watch out for

Before You Start

Gathering the right tools and understanding the fundamental rule of pedal threads will make this job quick and painless. A little preparation now prevents stripped threads and scraped knuckles later.

A 15mm Pedal Wrench or a 6mm/8mm Allen Key: Check your pedals to see which tool you need. A dedicated pedal wrench is long and thin, providing excellent leverage and clearance. Some pedals only have an Allen key fitting on the end of the axle.
Penetrating Oil (like WD-40 or GT85): Essential for pedals that haven't been removed in a while and may be seized due to rust or grime.
A Clean Rag or Paper Towels: For cleaning old grease and dirt from the crank arm threads.
Grease or Anti-Seize Compound: For when you install your new pedals, to make future removal much easier.

Check first: The most critical thing to remember is that the left-side (non-drive-side) pedal is reverse-threaded. You must turn it clockwise to loosen it. Forcing it the wrong way will tighten it and can permanently damage the threads in your crank arm, which is an expensive part to replace.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully for a smooth removal process. The key is positioning the bike and your tools correctly to get the best leverage safely.

Position the Bike for Stability

You need the bike to be stable so you can apply force without it rolling away or falling over. The best option is to put the bike in a repair stand. If you don't have one, simply lean the bike securely against a solid wall. Ensure the side you are working on is facing you. You can also ask a friend to hold the bike steady. Avoid leaning the bike on anything delicate or unstable.

Select the Correct Tool

Inspect your pedal's axle, which is the part that screws into the crank arm. Look for two flat surfaces on the axle between the pedal body and the crank arm. If you see these, you'll need a 15mm pedal wrench. These wrenches are thinner than a standard spanner, allowing them to fit into the narrow gap. If there are no wrench flats, look at the very end of the axle. You should see a hexagonal hole, which requires either a 6mm or 8mm Allen key (also called a hex key).

Tip: Test fit your tool before you apply any force. It should fit snugly. A loose tool can slip and round off the wrench flats or the Allen socket, making the pedal much harder to remove.

Position the Crank and Remove the Right (Drive-Side) Pedal

Let's start with the easier side: the right pedal, which is on the same side as the chainrings. This pedal has a standard thread, so the familiar "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" rule applies. To get the most leverage, shift the chain into the biggest chainring. This helps protect your knuckles if the wrench slips. Rotate the crank arm so it points forward, parallel to the ground (the 3 o'clock position).

Fit your wrench onto the pedal axle so that the handle is also pointing forward, slightly above the crank arm. Now, push down firmly on the wrench handle. The motion should be anti-clockwise, or towards the rear of the bike. You may need to put your body weight into it, especially if the pedal is tight. Once it breaks free, it should unscrew easily by hand.

Position the Crank and Remove the Left (Non-Drive-Side) Pedal

Now for the tricky one. Move to the other side of the bike. As before, rotate the crank arm so it is pointing forwards, parallel to the ground (the 9 o'clock position). This setup provides the best mechanical advantage for loosening the pedal.

Fit your wrench or Allen key onto the axle. Again, position the handle so it is pointing forward, creating a narrow "V" shape with the crank arm. Now, here's the crucial part: you need to push down on the wrench handle, which will turn it clockwise. This feels wrong, but it's correct for the reverse-threaded left pedal. Just like on the right side, the correct direction of force is always towards the rear of the bike. Apply firm, steady pressure until it breaks loose. Then, spin it off by hand.

Remember: The left pedal loosens clockwise. If you forget everything else, just remember to always position the crank forward and push the wrench handle down and towards the back of the bike. This works for both sides.

Clean and Inspect the Crank Threads

Once both pedals are off, take your clean rag and wipe out the threaded holes in the crank arms. Remove any old grease, dirt, or metal shavings. Look closely at the threads to ensure they are clean and not damaged. Clean threads will ensure your new pedals install smoothly and securely. This is also a good time to identify the 'L' and 'R' markings on your old pedals if you plan to reuse them later, so you don't mix them up.

Quick Reference

This is the most common point of confusion. Use this table to double-check the direction before you apply force.

Pedal Side (As if sitting on the bike)	Direction to Loosen	Why
Right Pedal (Drive-side, with gears)	Turn Anti-Clockwise (Lefty-Loosey)	Standard threading. The wrench handle moves towards the rear of the bike.
Left Pedal (Non-drive-side)	Turn Clockwise (Righty-Loosey)	Reverse threading prevents the pedal from unscrewing itself while riding. The wrench handle also moves towards the rear of the bike.

Common Problems When You Take Off A Bike Pedal

Sometimes, things don't go as planned. Here’s how to troubleshoot the most frequent issues.

The Pedal is Completely Seized

If the pedal won't budge no matter how hard you push, it's likely seized due to corrosion or being overtightened. First, apply a generous amount of penetrating oil to the area where the pedal axle threads into the crank arm. Let it sit for at least 15-20 minutes, or even overnight for very stubborn cases. Then, try again. You can also increase your leverage by using a longer wrench or slipping a metal pipe (a "cheater bar") over the handle of your wrench. Just be careful, as the increased force can cause the tool to slip or damage the parts if not applied carefully.

The Wrench or Allen Key Keeps Slipping

This usually happens for two reasons: the tool is a poor fit, or the pedal's fitting is worn or filled with dirt. First, use a small pick or screwdriver to clean out any hardened mud or grime from the Allen socket or from around the wrench flats. Ensure the tool is seated as deeply and squarely as possible before you apply any force. If it still slips, your tool might be worn out. A cheap, soft metal Allen key can round off easily. Try using a high-quality tool, which will have tighter tolerances.

I've Stripped the Hex Socket or Wrench Flats

This is a frustrating situation. If the hexagonal socket or the flat surfaces for a wrench are rounded off, your tool has nothing to grip. At this point, your best bet is to take the bike to a professional mechanic. They have specialised tools like locking pliers with extreme gripping power, or even bolt extractors that can bite into the damaged axle and remove it. Trying to fix this at home without the right equipment often leads to more damage to the crank arm.

Advanced Tips for Taking Off A Bike Pedal

Once you’ve mastered the basics, these techniques can make the job even easier and help protect your equipment.

Use the "Squeeze" Method for Maximum Force

For very tight pedals, instead of just pushing on the wrench, try squeezing the wrench and the opposite crank arm together. Position the crank and wrench so they form a "V" shape. Grab the end of the wrench with one hand and the end of the crank arm that's pointing in the opposite direction with your other hand. Now, squeeze them together like a pair of giant pliers. This uses the strength of your arms and chest and gives you more control than simply stomping on the wrench.

Protect Your Frame and Your Hands

When a tight pedal finally breaks free, your hand can fly forward and hit the chainrings, frame, or spokes. It's a classic way to scrape your knuckles. Always wear a pair of work gloves for protection. You can also wrap a thick rag around the chainrings and nearby parts of the frame. This provides a soft landing spot for your hand and prevents the wrench from scratching your bike's paint if it slips.

Always Use Grease When Installing Pedals

The number one reason pedals become seized is because they were installed dry. When you install new (or the same) pedals, apply a thin, even layer of bicycle grease or anti-seize compound to the pedal threads. This prevents water from getting in, stops corrosion, and ensures the pedals will be easy to remove months or even years from now.

How Do You Take Off A Bike Pedal FAQ

Why is the left bike pedal reverse-threaded?

This is a clever piece of engineering to stop your pedal from falling off. As you pedal, a phenomenon called "precession" creates a rotational force on the axle. On the right side, this force is anti-clockwise, so a standard clockwise-tightening thread works against it. On the left side, the force is clockwise. If it had a standard thread, this force would slowly unscrew the pedal as you ride. By using a reverse (left-hand) thread, the pedalling action constantly works to keep the pedal tight.

Can I use a normal spanner instead of a pedal wrench?

You might be able to, but it's not ideal. Most standard spanners are too thick to fit into the narrow space between the pedal body and the crank arm. A dedicated pedal wrench is much thinner and usually longer, giving you better leverage. If your pedal only has an Allen key fitting, then a spanner won't work at all.

How can I tell which pedal is left and which is right?

Almost all pedals are marked with an 'L' and an 'R'. Look for a small stamped or printed letter on the end of the axle or on the wrench flats. 'L' is for the left (non-drive-side) of the bike, and 'R' is for the right (drive-side). If there are no markings, you can often tell by looking at the direction of the threads. Holding the pedal, if the threads go up to the right, it's a right pedal. If they go up to the left, it's a left pedal.

Final Checklist for Taking Off A Bike Pedal

Before you start, run through this quick mental checklist to ensure a successful removal.

Correct Tool: Have you confirmed if you need a 15mm pedal wrench or a 6mm/8mm Allen key?
Identify Sides: You know which pedal is on the right (drive-side) and which is on the left.
Remember the Threads: Right pedal is normal thread (loosens anti-clockwise). Left pedal is reverse thread (loosens clockwise).
Direction of Force: For both pedals, the wrench should be turned towards the rear of the bike to loosen.
Prepare for Installation: Have grease or anti-seize ready to apply to the threads before you install the next set of pedals.
Safety First: Position the bike securely and consider wearing gloves to protect your hands.