How Do You Take Off Bike Pedals

Removing your bike pedals is a fundamental maintenance skill every cyclist should learn. Whether you're upgrading to a new set, packing your bike for travel, or giving your crankset a deep clean, this task is straightforward with the right tools and technique. The most important thing to remember is that the two pedals are threaded differently to prevent them from loosening as you ride. This guide provides a clear, step-by-step process to help you take off bike pedals safely and without damaging your components.

Fast Answer

Right Pedal (drive side): Loosens anti-clockwise (normal thread).
Left Pedal (non-drive side): Loosens clockwise (reverse thread).
Tool Needed: A 15mm pedal spanner or a 6mm/8mm Allen key.
Key Action: Position the crank forward and push the tool down towards the ground.

5-15 Minutes Time needed

Easy Difficulty

Reverse Threading Watch out for

Before You Start

Gathering the right tools and understanding the key safety points will make this job quick and trouble-free. Most pedals can be removed with one of two common tools, so the first step is to see which type you have.

What You Need

A Pedal Spanner or Allen Key: Check your pedals. If you see two flat surfaces on the axle where it meets the crank arm, you need a 15mm pedal spanner. If there's a hexagonal hole on the very end of the pedal axle (on the inside of the crank arm), you'll need a long-handled 6mm or 8mm Allen key. A dedicated pedal spanner is usually longer and thinner than a standard spanner, providing better leverage and clearance.
Rags or Paper Towels: The drivetrain is a greasy area, so have something on hand to clean your hands, tools, and the bike's crank threads.
Grease: You'll need some bicycle-specific grease or anti-seize compound for when you reinstall the pedals. This is crucial to prevent them from seizing in the future.
Optional: Penetrating Oil: If the pedals haven't been removed in a long time, they may be stuck. A spray like WD-40 Specialist Penetrant or GT85 can help loosen them.
Optional: Gloves: A pair of mechanic's gloves will keep your hands clean and can improve your grip on the tools.

Safety, Timing, or Context Checks

Check first: The most common mistake is forgetting the left-side pedal has a reverse thread. The left pedal loosens clockwise. Trying to force it anti-clockwise will only tighten it further and can strip the threads in your crank arm, leading to a costly repair.

Before you apply any force, double-check which pedal you are working on and which direction you need to turn the tool. A simple memory aid is: for both pedals, the tool handle moves towards the rear of the bike to loosen.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully for a smooth removal process. We'll start with the right-hand (drivetrain) side, as it uses a standard thread that you're likely more familiar with.

Position Your Bike Securely

A stable bike is a safe bike. The best option is to mount your bike in a repair stand. If you don't have one, you can lean the bike securely against a wall. Make sure the side you're working on has enough space for you to move and apply force to the tools. It's also a good idea to shift your chain onto the largest chainring at the front. This creates a barrier that can protect your knuckles from the sharp teeth of the chainring if your hand slips.

Position the Right-Side (Drivetrain) Crank

Let's begin with the right pedal, which is on the same side as your chain and gears. Rotate the crankset so the right crank arm is pointing forward, in roughly the 3 o'clock position. This setup allows you to use gravity and your body weight to your advantage, creating maximum leverage to push down on the tool and loosen the pedal.

Fit the Tool and Loosen the Right Pedal

Fit your 15mm pedal spanner onto the flats of the pedal axle, or insert your Allen key fully into the socket on the end of the axle. Ensure the tool is seated correctly and securely to avoid it slipping and damaging the pedal or crank.

The right pedal has a standard thread, so it loosens anti-clockwise ("lefty-loosey"). Position your tool so the handle is pointing mostly upwards. Now, apply firm and steady downward pressure. You may feel a distinct 'crack' or 'pop' as the thread breaks free from years of tension and grime. Push the spanner handle down and towards the rear of the bike.

Tip: If it's very tight, try holding the opposite crank arm with your other hand to prevent the entire assembly from spinning as you apply pressure.

Unscrew and Remove the Right Pedal

Once you've broken the initial tension, the pedal should be easy to unscrew. You can continue using the tool or, more quickly, spin the pedal axle by hand in an anti-clockwise direction until it comes completely free from the crank arm. Set the right pedal aside on a rag.

Position the Left-Side (Non-Drivetrain) Crank

Now, move to the other side of the bike. Just as before, rotate the crankset so the left crank arm is pointing forward, now in the 9 o'clock position. This again sets you up for the most effective application of force—pushing downwards.

Fit the Tool and Loosen the Left Pedal (The Tricky One)

This is the crucial step. Remember, the left pedal is reverse-threaded. This means it loosens in the opposite direction to a normal screw: clockwise.

Fit your spanner or Allen key securely, with the handle pointing upwards. Apply firm and steady downward pressure. Just like on the right side, you are pushing the tool's handle down and towards the rear of the bike. This clockwise motion will loosen the pedal. Again, listen and feel for that 'pop' as the thread breaks free.

Unscrew and Remove the Left Pedal

With the tension broken, you can now spin the left pedal axle clockwise by hand to unscrew it completely from the crank arm. You have now successfully removed both pedals. Most pedals are stamped with a small 'L' and 'R' on the axle to help you identify them, which is essential for reinstallation.

Clean and Inspect the Threads

Take your rag and wipe out the threaded holes in both crank arms. Remove any old grease, dirt, or metal shavings. A clean surface is essential for installing new pedals correctly. Also, give the threads on the pedals themselves a quick wipe down. This is a good opportunity to inspect the threads on both the cranks and the pedals for any signs of damage or cross-threading.

Tip: If the threads are particularly grimy, you can use a bit of degreaser on your rag to get them perfectly clean before applying new grease for reinstallation.

Quick Reference

Situation	Action	Why
Removing the Right-Side Pedal	Turn Anti-Clockwise (towards the rear wheel)	This pedal has a standard right-hand thread.
Removing the Left-Side Pedal	Turn Clockwise (towards the rear wheel)	This pedal has a reverse (left-hand) thread to prevent it from unscrewing while pedalling.
A pedal is completely stuck	Apply penetrating oil to the thread, wait 15 minutes, then retry.	The oil helps break down corrosion and rust that can cause the pedal to seize.
Re-installing any pedal	Apply a thin layer of grease to the pedal threads first.	Grease prevents corrosion and seizing, making future removal much easier.

Common Problems When You Take Off Bike Pedals

Sometimes, things don't go as smoothly as planned. Here are some common issues and how to solve them.

Problem: The pedal is seized and will not move.

This is the most frequent challenge, especially if the pedals were installed without grease. First, double-check you are turning the tool in the correct direction for that specific side of the bike. If the direction is correct and it still won't budge, try these solutions in order:

Increase Leverage: A longer tool provides more leverage. If you're using a short Allen key, find a longer one. You can sometimes slide a metal pipe (a 'cheater bar') over the handle of your tool to extend it, but be very careful not to let the tool slip, as this can round off the bolt or spanner flats.
Use Penetrating Oil: Liberally spray a good quality penetrating oil where the pedal axle screws into the crank arm. Let it soak in for at least 15-30 minutes, or even overnight for extremely stubborn cases. This gives the oil time to work its way into the threads.
Use Percussive Force: A sharp jolt can be more effective than steady pressure at breaking a seized thread. With the tool securely in place, give the end of the handle a few firm taps with a rubber mallet or a hammer (use a block of wood to protect the tool).

Problem: The tool keeps slipping or has rounded the fitting.

This happens when the tool isn't fully seated, is of poor quality, or the fitting on the pedal is already worn. Stop immediately if you feel the tool slip. Continuing will only make it worse. Make sure your spanner or Allen key is pushed in as far as it can go. If the flats or socket are already damaged, removal can be very difficult and may require specialist tools, so it might be time for a visit to your local bike shop.

Problem: The whole crankset spins when I try to loosen the pedal.

This is easily fixed. Simply use your free hand to grip the opposite crank arm, holding it firmly in place. This will provide the counter-force needed to stop the crankset from rotating while you focus on loosening the pedal.

Advanced Tips for how do you take off bike pedals

Use Your Body Weight Safely: For an extremely tight pedal, you can use a "gravity-assisted" method. Rotate the crank so it's horizontal and pointing towards the rear of the bike. Attach the pedal spanner so its handle is also pointing towards the rear, parallel to the ground. Hold onto a sturdy wall or workbench for balance, and carefully place your foot onto the end of the spanner handle, applying your body weight to break the pedal free. This provides immense leverage but should be done with caution.
Always Grease the Threads on Installation: The single best thing you can do to make this job easy next time is to apply a thin, even coat of bicycle grease or anti-seize compound to the pedal threads before you screw them back in. This prevents the metal-on-metal corrosion that causes seizing.
Use a Torque Wrench for Installation: While not essential for removal, if you have a torque wrench, use it when putting pedals back on. Most manufacturers recommend a torque setting between 30-40 Newton-metres (Nm). This ensures they are tight enough not to come loose, but not so tight that they become impossible to remove later.
Check for Pedal Washers: Some cranksets, particularly those made of carbon fibre, require thin washers to be placed between the pedal body and the face of the crank arm. If your pedals have these when you remove them, make sure to keep them and reinstall them in the same place.

How Do You Take Off Bike Pedals FAQ

Why is the left bike pedal reverse threaded?

The left pedal is reverse-threaded to counteract a mechanical phenomenon called precession. As you pedal, the force on the bearings can cause a standard-threaded pedal to slowly unscrew itself over time. By reversing the thread on the left side, this same force actually works to keep the pedal tight and secure.

Can I use a normal 15mm spanner instead of a pedal spanner?

Sometimes, but often you can't. A standard spanner is typically much thicker than a dedicated pedal spanner. The clearance between the pedal body and the crank arm is often very narrow, and a standard spanner simply won't fit. Pedal spanners are designed to be thin enough to fit easily into this gap.

How can I tell which pedal is left and which is right?

Nearly all pedals are marked for identification. Look closely at the axle or the end of the spanner flats. You should see a small stamped 'L' and 'R'. If they are not marked, you can identify them by the thread direction. The right pedal will have a normal thread, while the left pedal's thread will slant in the opposite direction.

Final Checklist for how do you take off bike pedals

Before you pack your tools away, run through this quick final check to ensure you've done everything correctly.

Right Pedal Removed: Confirmed the tool was turned anti-clockwise.
Left Pedal Removed: Confirmed the tool was turned clockwise.
Tools Used Correctly: The spanner or Allen key was fully seated to prevent slipping.
Crank Threads Cleaned: Used a rag to wipe old grease and dirt from the crank arm holes.
Pedal Threads Cleaned: Wiped down the threads on the pedals you just removed.
Pedals Identified: The left and right pedals are correctly identified (usually marked 'L' and 'R') and kept separate for reinstallation.