How To Change A Bicycle Tyre

Getting a flat tyre is an inevitable part of cycling, but it doesn't have to end your ride. This guide provides clear, step-by-step instructions for changing a bicycle inner tube, a fundamental skill that will save you time, money, and the frustration of being stranded. We'll walk you through the entire process, from removing the wheel to inflating the new tube, covering common pitfalls and pro tips along the way. Whether you're at home or on the roadside, this guide makes changing a bicycle tyre a simple and manageable task.

Fast Answer

Preparation: Remove the wheel and fully deflate the old tube.
Removal: Use tyre levers to unseat one side of the tyre and pull out the punctured inner tube.
Inspection: Carefully check the inside of the tyre for the object that caused the flat.
Installation: Partially inflate a new tube, fit it into the tyre, and reseat the tyre onto the rim by hand.
Inflation: Check the tyre is seated correctly, then inflate to the recommended pressure.

15-30 Minutes Time needed

Easy Difficulty

Pinching the new tube Watch out for

Before You Start

Tyre Levers: You will need at least two, but a set of three is ideal. Plastic levers are best as they are less likely to damage your wheel rim.
New Inner Tube: Ensure it's the correct size for your tyre and has the right valve type (Presta or Schrader) for your rim and pump.
Pump: A floor pump (track pump) is easiest at home, while a mini-pump is essential for roadside repairs. Make sure its head matches your valve type.
Optional Items: A pair of gloves to keep your hands clean and a rag can be very useful.

Check first: Verify your new inner tube's size and valve type. The size (e.g., 700x28c or 29x2.2) is printed on the side of your tyre. Using the wrong size can lead to another puncture or a poor fit.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Remove the Wheel from the Bicycle

First, you need to get the wheel off the bike. If it's the rear wheel, shift the gears so the chain is on the smallest cog on the cassette. This makes removal and reinstallation much easier.

If you have rim brakes, you'll need to release the tension. Most have a small lever on the brake caliper that you can flip up. For hydraulic disc brakes, you don't need to do anything, but be careful not to squeeze the brake lever while the wheel is out.

Next, open the wheel's axle. For a quick-release skewer, pull the lever outwards. You may need to unscrew the nut on the other side a few turns to create enough clearance. For a thru-axle, you will need to unscrew it completely, often using a built-in lever or a hex key.

With the axle loosened or removed, the wheel should drop out. You may need to gently guide the chain out of the way for a rear wheel.

Deflate the Old Inner Tube Completely

Even if the tyre looks flat, there might be some air left inside. You must remove all of it to make the tyre easier to unseat from the rim. Remove the plastic dust cap from the valve.

For a Presta valve (the thin type with a small locknut at the tip), unscrew the locknut and press down on the tip to release the air.
For a Schrader valve (the thicker type, like on a car), press the small pin in the centre of the valve opening.

Press on the tyre around the wheel to squeeze out any remaining air.

Unseat the Tyre Bead from the Rim

This is a critical step that many people miss. The 'bead' is the edge of the tyre that hooks into the rim. To loosen it, work your way around the wheel, pushing the side of the tyre inwards, away from the rim, on both sides. You should hear or feel it pop loose from the rim edge.

By pushing the bead into the deeper central channel of the rim, you create valuable slack that will make it much easier to get the tyre levers in and remove the tyre.

Tip: Don't skip this. If a tyre feels impossibly tight, it's almost always because the bead on the opposite side isn't sitting in the middle of the rim.

Use Tyre Levers to Remove One Side of the Tyre

Take your first tyre lever. Starting opposite the valve, hook the scooped end under the tyre bead and gently lever it up and over the edge of the rim. If your lever has a hook on the other end, hook it onto a spoke to hold it in place.

Take your second tyre lever and insert it about 10cm (a few inches) away from the first. Repeat the process, levering another section of the bead over the rim. The tyre should now be noticeably looser. You can often remove the first lever and "run" the second one around the rest of the rim to pop the entire bead off on one side.

You only need to remove one side of the tyre from the rim to access the inner tube.

Remove the Old Inner Tube

With one side of the tyre free, you can now pull out the punctured inner tube. Start from the side opposite the valve and simply lift it out. When you get to the valve, you may need to push the valve stem up through the valve hole in the rim from the outside before pulling it free with the rest of the tube.

Inspect the Tyre and Rim for a Cause

This is the most important step for preventing another immediate puncture. You must find what caused the flat in the first place.

First, carefully run your fingers along the inside surface of the tyre. Go slowly and methodically around the entire circumference. You are feeling for anything sharp that might have pierced through, such as a shard of glass, a thorn, or a small piece of flint. If you find something, remove it completely.

Next, visually inspect the outside of the tyre for any cuts or embedded objects. Finally, check the rim. Ensure the rim tape (the strip of fabric or plastic that covers the spoke holes) is intact and properly centred. A sharp spoke end poking through the tape can easily cause a puncture.

Check first: Be very careful when feeling inside the tyre. A sharp object can easily cut your fingers. For extra safety, use a rag or wear a glove.

Prepare and Partially Inflate the New Inner Tube

Take your new inner tube out of its box. Unroll it and find the valve. It's a good idea to put a small amount of air into it before installation. Just one or two pumps is enough to give the tube some shape. This helps prevent the tube from twisting or getting pinched under the tyre bead during installation, which is a common cause of a "pinch flat".

Install the New Tube and Reseat the Tyre

Start by locating the valve hole in your rim. Insert the valve of your new, slightly inflated tube through the hole. If it has a lockring, you can lightly screw it on to hold the valve in place.

Now, gently tuck the rest of the inner tube up into the space between the tyre and the rim, working your way around the entire wheel. Make sure there are no twists.

Once the tube is in, it's time to reseat the tyre. Using your thumbs, start opposite the valve and push the tyre bead back over and into the rim. Work your way around the wheel from both directions, meeting at the valve. The last section will be the tightest. Resist the temptation to use a tyre lever here, as it can easily pinch and puncture your new tube. Instead, keep working the bead into the central channel of the rim to create slack.

Tip: For the last tight section, try pushing the valve stem up into the tyre. This allows the tyre bead in that area to sit deeper in the rim, giving you the final bit of slack you need to pop it on with your thumbs.

Check the Tyre is Seated Correctly Before Inflation

Before you inflate the tyre fully, you need to perform a final check. Go around both sides of the wheel and inspect the line where the tyre meets the rim. You are looking to ensure that the inner tube is not caught under the tyre bead anywhere. If it is, it will blow out when you add pressure.

Push the tyre side to side to check. Most tyres have a moulding line on the sidewall near the rim. This line should be an even distance from the rim all the way around. If it dips down into the rim at any point, the bead is not properly seated there.

Inflate to the Correct Pressure and Reinstall the Wheel

Attach your pump to the valve and begin to inflate. As you add air, keep an eye on the tyre bead to make sure it's staying seated correctly. You may hear a few 'pings' or 'pops' as the bead fully locks into place.

The recommended pressure range for your tyre is printed on the sidewall, shown in PSI (pounds per square inch) or Bar. Inflate to a pressure within this range. Once done, remove the pump, tighten the Presta valve locknut (if applicable), and replace the dust cap.

Finally, place the wheel back onto the bike. Make sure it's fully seated in the dropouts before tightening the quick-release or thru-axle. Re-engage your rim brake if you opened it. Give the wheel a spin to ensure it runs true and doesn't rub against the frame or brake pads.

Quick Reference

Situation	Use this	Why
Tyre is too tight to get on or off	Push the bead into the central channel of the rim	This creates slack, making the tyre much easier to handle.
The new tube punctures immediately	Check for a pinched tube or a missed sharp object	These are the two most common causes of instant flats.
Can't find the cause of the puncture	Inflate the old tube and listen/feel for escaping air	This helps you locate the hole and match it to a spot on the tyre.
The last section of tyre won't go on	Use your thumbs and push the valve up	Using levers risks pinching the tube; pushing the valve up provides slack.

Common Problems When You Change A Bicycle Tyre

Even with a guide, things can sometimes go wrong. Here are some of the most common issues and how to solve them.

Pinch Flats (or "Snake Bites")

This happens when the new inner tube gets pinched between the tyre bead and the wheel rim, or between a tyre lever and the rim, during installation. It often creates two small, parallel holes resembling a snake bite.

Solution: The best prevention is to partially inflate the tube before installing it to give it shape. Secondly, always try to get the final, tight section of the tyre on using just your thumbs. If you must use a lever, be extremely careful not to trap the tube underneath it.

The Tyre is Extremely Tight

Some tyre and rim combinations are notoriously tight. Brute force is rarely the answer and can lead to broken levers or a damaged rim.

Solution: The problem is almost always a lack of slack. Go back to step 3 and ensure the bead on both sides of the tyre is sitting in the deepest part of the rim channel, especially on the side opposite to where you are working. This is the key to creating enough slack to work with.

Repeated Punctures

If you fix a flat only to get another one a few minutes into your next ride, you likely missed the original cause.

Solution: You must be meticulous during the inspection step (Step 6). A tiny shard of glass or a thin thorn can hide easily in the rubber. A good trick is to inflate the old tube to find the hole, then line it up with the tyre to identify the exact area where the object pierced it.

Advanced Tips for Changing a Bicycle Tyre

Once you've mastered the basics, these tips can make the process smoother and help you manage more complex situations.

Use a Lubricant for Tight Tyres: For a very stubborn tyre, a small amount of soapy water applied to the bead can act as a lubricant, helping it slide over the rim more easily. Avoid using oil-based lubricants as they can damage the rubber.
Learn to Patch a Tube: Carrying a spare tube is great, but a patch kit is much smaller and lighter. Learning to properly patch a tube (roughen the area, apply vulcanising solution, press patch firmly) is a valuable skill for long rides where you might get multiple flats.
Understand Tyre Pressure: The pressure range on your tyre's sidewall is a guide, not a rule. For more grip and comfort, especially on rough surfaces, you can run lower pressures. For pure speed on smooth tarmac, higher pressures are better. Experiment within the recommended range to find what works best for your weight and riding style.
Consider Going Tubeless: Many modern bikes, especially mountain and gravel bikes, use tubeless systems. These setups use a liquid sealant inside the tyre to automatically fix small punctures. While the initial setup is more complex, they can significantly reduce the frequency of flat tyres from thorns and sharp stones.

How To Change A Bicycle Tyre FAQ

How often should I replace my bicycle tyres?

You should replace the tyre itself (the outer rubber part) when the tread is worn flat, you can see the casing threads showing through, there are significant cuts or cracks in the sidewall, or you start getting frequent, unexplained punctures. The inner tube only needs to be replaced when it gets a puncture that you can't or don't wish to repair.

Can I repair a punctured inner tube?

Absolutely. Using a simple patch kit, you can reliably repair most small punctures. A properly applied patch is a permanent fix and is just as strong as the rest of the tube. It's an economical and environmentally friendly alternative to replacing the tube every time.

What's the difference between Presta and Schrader valves?

A Presta valve is thin, has a small nut on its tip that you must unscrew to inflate it, and is common on road and higher-performance bikes. A Schrader valve is wider, identical to a car tyre valve, and is typically found on mountain bikes, hybrids, and children's bikes.

Is the process the same for all types of bikes?

The core principle of removing the tyre, swapping the tube, and reinstalling is identical for road bikes, mountain bikes, and hybrids. The main differences you'll encounter are the wheel and tyre sizes, the type of brake system (rim vs. disc), and the axle type (quick-release vs. thru-axle), all of which affect the first step of removing the wheel.

Final Checklist for Changing a Bicycle Tyre

Before you get back on your bike, run through this quick mental checklist to ensure everything is safe and secure.

Wheel Security: Is the wheel fully seated in the dropouts and is the quick-release lever or thru-axle tightened correctly?
Brake Function: If you have rim brakes, have you re-engaged the caliper? Do the brakes work correctly and not rub on the tyre?
Tyre Pressure: Is the tyre inflated to a suitable pressure within the range specified on the sidewall?
Bead Seating: Is the tyre bead seated evenly all the way around the rim on both sides?
Valve Position: Is the valve stem straight and not angled sideways?
Free Spin: Does the wheel spin freely without wobbling or rubbing against the frame or brakes?